How to Fix a Leaky Faucet

An endless drip, drip, drip from a leaky faucet isn't just a minor annoyance—it's a significant waste of water and money. That constant dripping can add up to hundreds of gallons of wasted water per year, inflating your utility bills and putting an unnecessary strain on the environment. Many homeowners hesitate to tackle this common household problem, fearing it's a complex plumbing job that requires a professional. However, learning how to fix a leaky faucet is a surprisingly manageable DIY task for most people. With a few basic tools and a little bit of guidance, you can silence that drip and save yourself the cost of a plumber's visit. This comprehensive guide is designed to empower you with the knowledge and confidence to do just that.

This step-by-step tutorial will walk you through the entire process, from identifying the type of faucet in your kitchen or bathroom to replacing the worn-out parts that cause the leak. We will explore the four most common types of faucets—compression, cartridge, ceramic disc, and ball—and provide detailed, illustrated instructions for repairing each one. You will learn how to properly shut off the water supply, disassemble the faucet, identify the source of the leak (usually a faulty washer, O-ring, or seal), and purchase the correct replacement parts. By following these instructions carefully, you'll not only fix the immediate problem but also gain valuable DIY skills that will serve you well for future home maintenance projects. Get ready to turn that frustrating drip into a satisfying accomplishment.

Section 1: Getting Started - Tools and Preparation

Before you begin to fix your leaky faucet, a little preparation will ensure the process goes smoothly and prevents a small drip from turning into a major flood. Taking the time to gather the right tools and properly shut off the water is the most critical first step in this DIY project. Rushing into the repair without these preliminaries can lead to frustration and potential damage.

Essential Tools and Materials

Having the right tools on hand is half the battle. While the specific parts you'll need will depend on your faucet type, the basic toolkit for this job is fairly standard. You likely have many of these items in your home already.

Core Toolkit

• Adjustable Wrench: This is your most versatile tool for loosening and tightening various nuts and connections on the faucet body and under the sink.
• Screwdrivers: Have both a flathead and a Phillips head screwdriver. These will be necessary for removing handle screws, which are often concealed beneath a decorative cap.
• Pliers: A pair of slip-joint pliers or channel-lock pliers will provide a firm grip on stubborn parts. It's wise to wrap the jaws with electrical tape to avoid scratching the faucet's finish.
• Allen Wrench Set (Hex Keys): Many modern faucets, particularly single-handle models, use a small set screw (grub screw) to hold the handle in place, which requires an Allen wrench to remove.
• Rags or a Small Towel: You'll need these to soak up any residual water that spills out when you disassemble the faucet and to keep your work area dry.
• Small Bowl or Container: Use this to keep small screws, washers, and other parts organized so they don't get lost down the drain.

Faucet-Specific Materials

Depending on the type of faucet you have, you will need specific replacement parts. These are typically inexpensive and can be found at any hardware or home improvement store. It's often a good idea to buy a universal faucet repair kit that includes a variety of washers and O-rings.

• Replacement Washers and O-Rings: These are the most common culprits in faucet leaks.
• Replacement Cartridge: For cartridge faucets, you may need to replace the entire cartridge.
• Replacement Seals and Springs: For ball-type faucets, these small parts often wear out.
• Plumber's Grease: This helps lubricate O-rings and makes reassembly smoother.

Turning Off the Water Supply

This is a non-negotiable step. Never attempt to work on a faucet without first shutting off the water. Failure to do so will result in a significant and immediate water gusher.

Locating the Shut-off Valves

Look in the cabinet directly beneath the sink. You should see two small valves, one for the hot water line and one for the cold. They usually have a small, oval-shaped handle.

Closing the Valves

Turn the handles clockwise ("righty-tighty") until they are firmly closed. Do not apply excessive force, as this can damage the valve. Once they are closed, turn on the faucet in the middle position (both hot and cold) to drain any remaining water from the lines. The water flow should slow to a trickle and then stop completely. If you don't have shut-off valves under your sink, you will need to turn off the main water supply to your entire house. The main shut-off valve is typically located in your basement, crawl space, or on an exterior wall where the water pipe enters your home.

Section 2: Identifying Your Faucet Type

Before you can fix your leaky faucet, you need to know what kind you're working with. The internal mechanics vary significantly between different types, and the repair method for one will not work for another. There are four primary types of faucets found in modern homes.

Compression Faucet

This is the oldest and most traditional faucet type, easily identified by its two separate handles for hot and cold water.

• How to Identify: Two distinct handles that you tighten down to close off the water flow. You can feel the pressure increase as you tighten the handle to shut it off.
• Common Cause of Leaks: The most common issue with compression faucets is a worn-out rubber washer at the base of the valve seat. Over time, the friction and pressure of being compressed wear it down, allowing water to seep through.

Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are very common and can have either one or two handles. They operate very smoothly with a simple up/down or side-to-side motion.

• How to Identify: If you have a single handle that moves up and down to control volume and left and right for temperature, it's likely a cartridge faucet. Two-handle models also exist, but they feel smoother to operate than compression faucets and don't require you to tighten them down.
• Common Cause of Leaks: The leak is usually caused by a worn-out cartridge or deteriorated O-rings on the cartridge body. The entire cartridge is a single, self-contained unit that is relatively easy to replace.

Ceramic Disc Faucet

These are modern, high-quality faucets known for their durability. They typically have a single, solid lever handle.

• How to Identify: A single handle that operates with a very smooth, quarter-turn or half-turn motion. The body of the faucet is often wider and more robust.
• Common Cause of Leaks: Ceramic disc faucets are very reliable, but leaks can occur if the neoprene seals at the base of the cylinder wear out or if sediment gets between the discs, breaking the seal.

Ball Faucet

Ball faucets are most common in kitchens and were the first type of washerless faucet. They have a single handle that moves over a rounded ball-shaped cap.

• How to Identify: A single handle that rotates and pivots on a ball-shaped mechanism at the base of the faucet spout.
• Common Cause of Leaks: Leaks are typically caused by worn-out rubber seals, springs, or O-rings inside the faucet mechanism. These are usually sold together in a replacement kit.

Section 3: How to Fix a Compression Faucet

The compression faucet is often the easiest to fix because its mechanism is simple and the parts are readily available. The leak almost always comes from a worn-out seat washer.

Step 1: Disassembly

• Pry off the Decorative Cap: Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle (it might be labeled 'H' or 'C').
• Remove the Handle Screw: You will see a Phillips head screw underneath the cap. Unscrew it and pull the handle straight up and off the valve stem.
• Unscrew the Packing Nut: Using an adjustable wrench, loosen and remove the packing nut. This will expose the valve stem.
• Remove the Valve Stem: You can now unscrew the valve stem itself. It may be tight, so use your wrench. Once loose, pull it straight out of the faucet body.

Step 2: Replacing the Parts

• Inspect and Replace the Seat Washer: At the very bottom of the valve stem, you will find a small rubber washer held in place by a brass screw. This is the seat washer, and it is the most likely cause of your leak. Unscrew it and take it with you to the hardware store to ensure you get an exact match.
• Inspect and Replace the O-Ring: There is also a small O-ring around the body of the valve stem. If your faucet is leaking from the base of the handle, this O-ring is the culprit. Pry it off with a small screwdriver and replace it with a new one. Apply a bit of plumber's grease to the new O-ring before sliding it on.

Step 3: Reassembly

• Clean the Components: Before reassembling, clean any mineral deposits or sediment from the valve seat inside the faucet body and from the stem itself.
• Reassemble in Reverse Order: Screw the new seat washer onto the bottom of the stem. Insert the stem back into the faucet body and tighten it. Screw on the packing nut, place the handle back on top, and tighten the handle screw. Finally, pop the decorative cap back on.
• Test the Faucet: Turn the water supply back on slowly and check for leaks.

Section 4: How to Fix a Cartridge Faucet

Repairing a cartridge faucet typically involves replacing the entire cartridge unit. It's a straightforward process of removing the old one and inserting the new one.

Step 1: Removing the Handle and Cartridge

• Remove the Handle: As with the compression faucet, pry off the decorative cap to access the handle screw. For single-lever models, the screw might be a small set screw at the base of the handle, requiring an Allen wrench. Once the screw is out, tilt the handle back and pull it straight off.
• Remove the Retaining Clip: After removing the handle, you will see a retaining clip, which is a small metal or plastic piece holding the cartridge in place. Use needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver to pull this clip straight out.
• Extract the Cartridge: With the clip removed, you should be able to pull the cartridge straight up out of the faucet body. It may be stuck due to mineral buildup. A special tool called a "cartridge puller" can be very helpful here, which you can often rent or buy at a hardware store.

Step 2: Installing the New Cartridge

• Match the Old Cartridge: Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to get an identical replacement. There are many different types, so a direct comparison is essential.
• Insert the New Cartridge: Make sure the new cartridge is aligned correctly (it will only fit one way) and press it firmly into the faucet body.
• Re-insert the Retaining Clip: Slide the retaining clip back into its slot to secure the new cartridge.

Step 3: Reassembly and Testing

• Reattach the Handle: Place the handle back onto the cartridge stem and tighten the screw. Replace the decorative cap.
• Test for Leaks: Slowly turn the water supply valves back on. Move the faucet handle through its full range of motion and carefully check for any leaks around the handle and spout.

Section 5: How to Fix a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets are durable but can leak if the seals become worn or if sediment gets trapped between the discs. The repair involves removing the cylinder and replacing the seals.

Step 1: Accessing the Cylinder

• Remove the Handle: Loosen the set screw at the base of the handle and pull the handle off. You will see a decorative cap covering the cylinder. Unscrew this cap.
• Remove the Disc Cylinder: You will now see the ceramic disc cylinder. Remove the screws holding it in place, and then lift the cylinder straight out.

Step 2: Cleaning and Replacing the Seals

• Inspect the Cylinder: Check the ceramic discs for any visible cracks. If they are damaged, you will need to replace the entire cylinder.
• Replace the Seals: At the bottom of the cylinder, you will find several neoprene seals. Carefully pry these out with a small screwdriver and install the new ones from your repair kit.
• Clean the Openings: Use a rag to clean out any mineral deposits from the cylinder openings inside the faucet body before re-inserting the cylinder.

Step 3: Reassembly

• Re-insert the Cylinder: Place the cylinder back into the faucet body, ensuring it's aligned correctly. Tighten the mounting screws.
• Reattach the Handle: Screw the decorative cap back on, followed by the handle. Tighten the set screw.
• Test the Repair: Turn the water on slowly. Move the handle from side to side and check for leaks. The handle should move smoothly.

Section 6: How to Fix a Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have more small parts than other types, so it's important to stay organized. Buying a replacement kit that includes the ball, springs, seals, and O-rings is the best approach.

Step 1: Disassembling the Faucet

• Remove the Handle: Use an Allen wrench to loosen the set screw at the base of the single handle and lift it off.
• Remove the Cap and Collar: Use pliers to unscrew and remove the cap and collar on top of the faucet body. You may need to use a special tool included in your repair kit.
• Lift Out the Ball and Cam: Once the cap is off, you can lift out the plastic cam, the packing, and the stainless steel ball itself.

Step 2: Replacing the Internal Parts

• Replace the Seats and Springs: Using a small screwdriver, reach into the faucet body and dig out the two rubber seats and the small springs underneath them. The new repair kit will have replacements. Drop the new springs into the holes, followed by the new rubber seats on top.
• Replace the O-Rings: Use a small screwdriver to remove the O-rings on the faucet body and replace them with the new ones from your kit. Coat the new O-rings with plumber's grease.

Step 3: Reassembly

• Re-insert the Ball: Place the stainless steel ball back into the faucet body, making sure the small pin on the ball aligns with the slot in the faucet body.
• Reassemble the Top: Place the plastic cam and packing over the ball and screw on the cap and collar, tightening it with your pliers.
• Reattach the Handle: Put the handle back on and tighten the set screw. Turn the water supply on and check your work for any signs of a leak.

Conclusion

Successfully fixing a leaky faucet is a rewarding DIY project that can save you both money and the annoyance of a constant drip. By taking a methodical approach—shutting off the water, identifying your faucet type, and carefully replacing the worn-out components—you can solve one of the most common plumbing problems in any home. Whether you have a traditional compression faucet or a modern ceramic disc model, the principles are the same: identify the faulty part, replace it with an exact match, and reassemble everything in the reverse order. Remember to keep small parts organized and to protect your faucet's finish by wrapping your tools with tape. With this guide and a little patience, you have the knowledge to confidently tackle that leak and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.

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